Rabu, 06 Januari 2010

Traditional Batik Gets a Makeover


The last 12 months have been fruitful for the nation�s most celebrated traditional textile � batik. Batik fashion has made a comeback after a decade of lying forgotten in the back of most Indonesians� closets. This year, the cloth has appeared everywhere from markets to high-end boutiques and runways.

In part, the return to batik has been fueled by a sense of national pride, amid a culture war with neighboring Malaysia over the ownership of traditional dances, art and music.

It was a big moment for Indonesia when the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization listed Indonesian batik as part of the world�s intangible cultural heritage in October, and the textile received another boost when President Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono who called on all Indonesians to wear batik every Friday.

�Batik will remain a strong element of the national fashion industry,� said Susi Bambang, manager of Danar Hadi boutique in Melawai, South Jakarta. �With Unesco�s recognition, batik is now a fashion icon for Indonesia. More and more people wear it with pride.�

Danar Hadi was founded 42 years ago by businessman Santosa Doellah. It is now one of the country�s leading batik fashion houses, with boutiques in Jakarta, Bandung, Semarang, Medan, Yogyakarta, Surabaya and Solo.

Earlier this month, Danar Hadi showcased its year-end collections in a fashion show at its four-story Melawai boutique.

The event featured the latest collections from Danar Hadi in-house designers Ainunnisyah, Nurmina Girsang and Lydia Rachel S Lumbanraja, and acclaimed Indonesian fashion designer Tri Handoko.

�In response to the changing market, we are creating new styles for out batik lines,� Susi said. �We want to show our market that batik is suitable for all occasions.�

Ainunnisyah�s creations are feminine and elegant, combining brilliantly colored hand-woven fabrics and patches of batik in contemporary patterns. The shirts, which are embellished with sequins and ruffles, are paired with knee-length batik pareos. The result is a line of slim and modern silhouettes that complement the figure.

For formal occasions, Ainunnisyah presented a classic black-and-white batik collection of medium-length dresses. �Puff sleeves, ruffles and pleats make these dresses look chic and fashionable,� Ainunnisyah said.

She also showcased her line of elegant long-sleeved shirts for men.

Susi said Danar Hadi had invented its own technique to color batik fabric. �It�s a modern technique that saturates soft and comfortable eyelet cotton in vibrant colors,� Susi said.

In Ainunnisyah�s hands, the brightly colored material is transformed into stylish short dresses embellished with frills and intricate embroidery.

Lydia Rachel presented a fresher, more upbeat collection, combining short-sleeved batik shirts with skinny jeans and tights. �My collection is a combination of wavy cutting patterns, contrasting colors and gemstones,� Lydia said.

Lydia�s blouses are bold and edgy with traditional motifs in clashing audacious colors, such as bright pink, emerald green and gold.

�Batik doesn�t have to be formal and serious,� Lydia said. �You can wear my designs on casual occasions, like when you�re hanging out with friends or going to the mall.�

Young designer Tri Handoko presented five of his organza batik creations, dominated by earthy browns. Susi said Tri used a deconstructive method to create his line, meaning fabric is cut and sewn as it sits on a mannequin.

For Tri�s line, the results are graceful loose-fit shirts, crinkled at the waist to generate beautiful sweeping lines around the hips.

�Organza batik has a more luxuriant and elegant look, which is preferred by our customers, despite the higher prices,� Susi said. Prices for a Danar Hadi organza batik outfit start at Rp 1.5 million ($160).

In-house designer Nurmina Girsang showcased her �Big and Elegant� collection. Targeted at plus-sized women, her outfits generate flared A-line shapes, enhanced with colorful sequins, pleats and draperies. �Big women can also look beautiful and elegant,� she said. �I use a special modification of hand-woven material with a soft furry texture,� she said.

The furs, which are actually short threads extending from the fabric, create a luxurious feel. The collection features lereng (slope) and parang (big knife) batik motifs, Nurmina said. �I want more people to know and appreciate traditional motifs.�

In 2010, Danar Hadi will release four new collections by its in-house designers in Jakarta and Solo, as well as high-end designers. The collections to be released next year will include influences from Java, China and Japan.

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